The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition comprising an ester, preferably of high molecular mass, exhibiting improved sensory properties. This ester is a saturated and branched C24-C28 fatty alcohol or acid ester. Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of this ester in a topical composition intended in particular for caring for, treating or making up the skin, both of the human face and body, lips and keratinous fibres or superficial body growths, such as the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails.
The use is known, in the formulation of cosmetic and dermatological products, of oils with a carbon number of greater than 50 for the purpose of increasing, for example, the gloss of a lipstick, the cohesion and the adhesion of a powder, or the film-forming nature and the emollience of a product for caring for or treating the skin.
From this viewpoint, the formulator has available several types of starting materials, such as:
oily polymers, such as polybutenes, which however can exhibit the disadvantage of being very sticky,
oils of plant origin which are generally oxidizable, which can result in a detrimental change in the cosmetic or dermatological properties of the product, and which also can display a very greasy and sometimes sticky nature on application,
synthetic liquid esters with high molecular masses, such as pentaerythrityl tetra[isostearate] (C77), triisoarachidyl citrate (C66), glyceryl tri[isostearate] (C57) or octyldodecyl stearoylstearate (C56), but which can exhibit the disadvantages of lack of slip on application and of a sticky feel for the esters with the highest molecular masses.
The subject-matter of the present invention is specifically the use of a novel saturated and branched C24 to C28 fatty alcohol or acid ester in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition which can overcome these disadvantages.
The inventors have unexpectedly found that specific esters, composed of saturated and branched C24 to C28 fatty alcohols or fatty acids, do not exhibit the abovementioned disadvantages in so far as, despite a high carbon number, they possessed very good sensory properties, in particular in terms of slip during application and of absence of stickiness of the film deposited on the skin, superficial body growths or mucous membranes, such as the lips.
No one until now has disclosed or suggested the use of these esters in a composition for topical application for the purpose of contributing, according to the specific application envisaged, emollience, a film-forming nature, gloss, cohesion and/or adhesion to pulverulent compounds, without, however, contributing a sticky, greasy feel to it, and while improving its spreading and slip properties.
More specifically, the subject-matter of the invention is a topical composition comprising at least one fatty phase, characterized in that this fatty phase comprises at least one saturated and branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the fatty alcohol or acid being saturated and branched and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of a fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the acid or of the alcohol of which is saturated and branched and comprises 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a dermatological composition which is non-sticky, non-greasy and/or glossy when it is applied to the skin, the lips and/or superficial body growths of a human being.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of a fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester, the carbon-comprising chain of the acid or of the alcohol of which is saturated and branched and comprises 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a dermatological composition in order to confer on it an emollient and/or film-forming and/or cohesive and adhesive nature when the composition is in pulverulent form.
The word ester, according to the invention, means a monoester or a polyester, including, e.g., a diester or a triester. Preferably, the polyester comprises at least two branched C24 to C28 chains. The word branched means at least one pendant hydrocarbon-comprising chain comprising in particular from 1 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, the pendant chain includes at least four carbon atoms and more preferably, two carbon atoms less than the principal chain. According to the invention, the ester is preferably a polyester, i.e., at least a diester.
The ester of the invention therefore comprises a saturated C24 to C28 fatty acid or fatty alcohol residue, in particular of the Guerbet fatty acid or fatty alcohol type respectively.
The ester of the composition of the invention is preferably an ester which is liquid at room temperature (20-25xc2x0 C.) and which exhibits a high molecular weight, that is to say having a carbon number of greater than 50 and in particular of greater than 70. The advantage of a liquid product, in comparison with a product which is pasty or solid at room temperature, lies in the greater number of its applications and its ease of use. Furthermore, the fact that this ester exhibits a high molecular weight makes it possible to obtain a film-forming composition which is persistent with regard to water, which is much desired for protection products, in particular sun protection products. In addition, this ester can provide a glossy film, which is desired by consumers for certain make-up products, such as nail varnishes and lipsticks. It exhibits, inter alia, a refractive index of greater than 1.45 at 20xc2x0 C. and an iodine number xe2x89xa64.
This ester, despite its high molecular weight, is neither greasy nor heavy nor sticky and confers notable comfort properties on a composition comprising it. This ester is a xe2x80x9ccosmeticxe2x80x9d oil and not a surfactant.
The ester according to the invention is advantageously a liquid, branched C24-C28 fatty acid, such as 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, ester and more especially a polyol, such as glycerol, ester which can be a mono-, di- or triglyceride. This ester is preferably a branched C24-C28 triglyceride of the Guerbet type and in particular a C24 acid, such as 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, triglyceride. Preferably, the polyol is not an ose. Further, the ester is advantageously insoluble in a mixture of water and alcohol.
This triglyceride is, for example, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate) sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by the Company Stxc3xa9arinerie Dubois. This ester exhibits a saponification number of 140 to 150, a refractive index  greater than 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.454 to 1.459 at 20xc2x0 C., an iodine number xe2x89xa64, a hydroxyl number xe2x89xa630 and an acid number xe2x89xa610. Its carbon number is 75.
Use may also be made of C24 fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate) (comprising 101 carbon atoms) sold under the reference DUB PTI 24 by the Company Stxc3xa9arinerie Dubois.
When the alcohol used in combination with the branched C24 to C28 fatty acid is a polyol, the esterification can be partial (and can concern 1, 2, 3 or more OH groups, depending on the alcohol used) or can be total.
Mention may be made, as ester of the invention comprising a fatty alcohol residue with a saturated and branched C24 to C28 chain, of di(decyltetradecyl) dimerates (comprising 84 carbon atoms), such as that sold under the reference DUB DI 24D by the Company Stxc3xa9arinerie Dubois, or decyltetradecyl neopentanoate (comprising 29 carbon atoms) or decyltetradecyl isostearate, sold by the Company Condea under the reference Isofol Ester 2482 (comprising 42 carbon atoms). The dimerates are diacids, generally of a C6 to C24 acid, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the like.
The ester according to the invention can represent from 0.1 to 99.9% of the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 99% and better still from 5 to 90% and can generally be present in an amount sufficient to confer non-greasy, non-sticky, slip and/or gloss properties on the composition.
The sensory properties of the ester according to the invention were demonstrated through a test carried out on a panel of five people using a protocol disclosed in the document EP-A-550779 of the Company Nestlxc3xa9, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein.
The applications of the ester of the invention are numerous and relate to all cosmetic and dermatological products.
The products of the invention can be provided in the form of solid, pasty or liquid compositions which are anhydrous or in the form of emulsions.
Thus, the composition of the invention can be provided in all the dosage forms normally used for topical application, including pharmaceutical dosage forms, and in particular in the form of an oily gel, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or of a dispersion of oil in water by virtue of vesicles, the vesicles being situated at the oil/water interface. This composition can have the appearance of a cream, of an ointment, of a supple paste, of a salve, of a cast or moulded solid, in particular a stick or dish, or of a compacted solid.
More specifically, the subject-matter of the invention is a lip product comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one ester as defined above.
The composition according to the invention can advantageously be used for treating, making-up or caring for the skin and/or mucous membranes, depending on the nature of the active principles used. In particular, the composition of the invention can be a lipstick stick or a lip gloss which can be used by itself or for application to a lipstick film, in particular in order to enhance its gloss (topcoat). It can also constitute a liquid or solid foundation, a product for combatting rings under the eyes or circles around the eyes, an eyeliner, a mascara, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a nail varnish, a free powder, a product for making up the body or alternatively a sun protection product or a product for caring for or cleansing the skin, such as scrubs. These compositions can additionally comprise cosmetic or dermatological active principles for the purpose, in particular, of contributing a care or treating aspect to the composition. Thus, the composition can comprise vitamins and other lipophilic active principles (lanolin, UVA screening agent) or hydrophilic active principles (moisturizers, such as glycerol).
The composition of the invention can additionally comprise any other ingredient conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, it can comprise a particulate filler which can represent from 0 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, and which can comprise pigments and/or pearlescent agents and/or fillers commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. This filler can result in a coloured, white or colourless composition.
Pigments should be understood as meaning inorganic or organic, white or coloured particles which are insoluble in the liquid fatty phase and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition. Fillers should be understood as meaning inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, colourless or white particles. Pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells or else synthesized. These fillers and pearlescent agents are used in particular to modify the texture of the composition.
The pigments can be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.05 to 25% of the weight of the final composition and preferably in a proportion from 2 to 15%. Mention may be made, as inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention, of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides and ferric blue. Mention may be made, among organic pigments which can be used in the invention, of carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium (DC Red No.7) or aluminium lakes.
The pearlescent agents can be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a high level of the order of 1 to 15%. Mention may be made, among the pearlescent agents which can be used in the invention, of mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, such as coloured titanium oxide-coated mica.
The fillers can be present in a proportion ranging from 0 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15%. Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, kaolin, nylon powder (in particular Orgasol), polyethylene powder, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, microspheres of copolymers, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie) or polytrap (Dow Corning), and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example).
In addition, the fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more other fatty substances and in particular waxes, gums and oils.
The waxes can be hydrocarbon-comprising, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes and can be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, they exhibit a melting temperature of greater than 25xc2x0 C. and better still of greater than 45xc2x0 C.
Mention may be made, as wax which can be used in the invention, of lanolin, which may or may not be oxypropylenated and which may or may not be acetylated, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or alternatively esters, such as octacosanyl stearate, or silicone waxes, such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain comprising 16 to 45 carbon atoms.
The nature and the amount of the gums or waxes depend on the desired textures and mechanical properties. By way of indication, the composition can comprise from 0 to 50% by weight of waxes with respect to the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 30%.
The oils can be hydrocarbon-comprising and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils. These oils can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. Mention may be made, as example of oil which can be used in the invention, of hydrocarbon-comprising oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; plant hydrocarbon- comprising oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, hydrogenated coconut triglycerides and triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by the Company Stxc3xa9arinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Company Dynamit; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam; sythetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-comprising chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyidodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyidodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, or heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol dihepanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which may or may not be volatile, which are linear or cyclic and which are liquid or pasty at room temperature; or their mixtures.
These oils can represent from 0 to 99.9% by weight with respect to the liquid fatty phase and better still from 0 to 95%.
Mention may be made, as other ingredient which can be used in the invention, of preservatives, thickeners for the aqueous or fatty phase (Bentone or silica), fragrances, surfactants, antioxidants and their mixtures. The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. The nature of these ingredients and their proportion should be compatible with the properties desired for the compositions of the invention. The composition can also comprise water in a proportion ranging from 0 to 95% of the total weight of the composition.
A further subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of the above composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or superficial body growths and more especially the lips, as well as the use of this composition for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended to treat the skin and/or mucous membranes and in particular the lips and/or superficial body growths. Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for the cosmetic and/or dermatological treatment of the skin and/or mucous membranes and in particular of the lips and/or superficial body growths which comprises applying the composition defined above to the skin and/or mucous membranes and in particular the lips and/or superficial body growths of human beings.
A further subject-matter of the invention is a process for conferring a non-sticky and/or non-greasy feel and/or glossy aspect and/or a film-forming nature on a topical composition which comprises introducing at least one ester as defined above into a cosmetic and/or dermatological medium. A further subject-matter of the invention is a cohesion and/or adhesion on a pulverulent topical composition which comprises introducing at least one ester as defined above into the composition.
The composition of the invention can be obtained by heating the various constituents to the melting temperature of the highest melting temperature constituent and then casting the molten mixture in a mould (dish or thimble). It can also be obtained by extrusion, as disclosed in Application EP-A-667,146, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein.